John Andrew, who became one of the founding members of The Fabergé Heritage Council in 2007, takes the opportunity to share some stories on Peter Carl Fabergé's use of aquamarine gemstones.
"Since time immemorial, aquamarines have been a symbol of youth, hope, health, and fidelity. Their very name recalls the bright colour of the sea or the pastel blue sky. Beads of the gemstone have been found with Egyptian mummies; they were admired by the ancient Greeks who engraved designs on the stones transforming them into intaglios while Roman fishermen called aquamarines ‘water of the sea’ and regarded the stones as a form of protection while travelling by boat and for bringing luck when fishing. Roman medics used the stones to treat bloating and over-indulgence while eating. Aquamarines have also been regarded as having a soothing influence on couples making them an ideal anniversary present.
While aquamarines are blue, they are found in a range of hues from a pale pastel to a greenish-blue or a really deep blue. However, the darker shades of aquamarines are increasingly difficult to find, which makes them more expensive. The most encountered aquamarines are pastel gemstones. Larger ones can have a quite intense colour, while the smaller stones are generally less vivid. Aquamarines are sturdy and can be used for all jewellery – rings, brooches, necklaces and earrings. It is recommended that the gems are cleaned regularly so that the colour is seen at its best. For example, Princess Diana wore an aquamarine and diamond cocktail ring while wearing outfits and accessories of similar hues to highlight the ring's colour and her eyes.
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In the early 20th century Fabergé made a superb aquamarine and diamond tiara, which, as you can see from the image above, features nine graduated pear-shaped aquamarines. The headpiece is adorned with forget-me-not flowers and Cupid’s arrows, making it an emblematic token of love. Unfortunately, it was not a straightforward commission. The tiara was a wedding gift from Frederick Francis IV, Grand Duke of Mecklenburg-Schwerin to his bride Princess Alexandra of Hanover and Cumberland. The wedding was planned for June 1904 when Frederick was 22 and Alexandra a year younger.
Eugène Fabergé, Peter Carl’s eldest son, corresponded with the Grand Ducal Cabinet. On 10 May 1904. he offered a diamond tiara at 10,000 roubles and an aquamarine and diamond one at 7,500 roubles. The Grand Duke chose the latter and drawings were sent for the top section of the tiara. Unfortunately, Peter Carl lost his copy of the drawings and needed to know which of the proposed designs the Grand Duke had chosen. This was sorted, but by this time, the tiara could not be made by 7 June, the date set for the wedding. On the wedding day, the Princess wore the traditional Hanoverian nuptial crown. Fabergé’s tiara arrived after the wedding, but in time for the Court Ball organised by the city of Schwerin on 8 July.
Grand Duchess Alexandra of Mecklenburg-Schwerin wearing the rare aquamarine and diamond tiara by Fabergé. Private Collection © Arkivi UG All Rights Reserved/Bridgeman Images
The detailed description of Alexandra wearing an aquamarine tiara with a pink silk dress and pearl necklaces at a court ball on 8 July 1904, together with the later official portrait of her wearing it (above), are evidence of its safe arrival.”
John Andrew, Fabergé Heritage Council
Explore aquamarines in our Colours of Love collection
